PEARLS...PART 2

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FUN FACTS:

Pearls are the birthstone for the month of June.

Pearls are the only jewels created from a living animal.

Pearls from mollusks that grew in cooler water tend to be more highly lustrous than those from warmer waters.

The inside layer of the oyster shell and the outer layer of the pearl are made of the same shimmery material called nacre; the pearl's oyster shells are known as Mother of Pearl.

GIA has a pearl grading system that establishes four categories of luster:

  • Excellent - Reflections are bright, sharp and distinct
  • Very Good- Reflections appear bright and near-sharp
  • Good - Reflections are bright but not sharp and slightly hazy around the edges
  • Fair - Reflections are weak and blurred
  • Poor - Reflections are dim and diffused

In Addition, there are seven value factors that are considered in pearl pricing: Size; Shape; Color; Luster; Surface Quality; Nacre Quality; and Matching.  Then there are fancy shapes of pearls that are in a class of their own...baroque pearls, circled pearls and drop pearls. Their value is in their individual beauty and rarity.

Some colors in the GIA Pearl Grading System:

  • Apricot - light pinkish orange Chinese Fresh Water Cultured Pearls 
  • Aubergine - Tahitian cultured pearls with a dark grayish purple bodycolor
  • Golden - Strong greenish yellow to orange yellow South Sea cultured pearls
  • Lavender - Light pinkish purple Chinese freshwater cultured pearls
  • Peacock - Tahitian cultured pearls with a dark green-gray to blue-gray body color and rose' to purple overtones
  • Pistachio - Tahitian cultured pearls with a yellowish green to greenish yellow bodycolor  

Pearl color can have three components:

  1. Bodycolor - The dominant, overall color of a pearl (all pearls have bodycolor)
  2. Overtone - One or more translucent colors that lie over a pearl's bodycolor (only some have overtone or orient or both)
  3. Orient - Iridescent rainbow colors that shimmer on or just below a pearl's surface (orient occurs most often when the pearl's surface is irregular - think baroque pearls)

 

      

CARING FOR YOUR PEARLS

Cultured pearls are very soft and can be easily scratched or abraded.  They should be protected from contact with metal or harder gems.  Store cultured pearls in a cloth pouch or wrapped in a soft cloth.

Pearls rate Poor to Good on the toughness scale.  They won't shatter easily, but at the same time, you can't treat them carelessly and expect them to remain undamaged.

As organic gems, pearls are part water.  Heat alone or intense light can dry cultured pearls and lead to discoloration and cracks in the nacre.  To keep pearls from dehydrating, keep them away from heat and excessive dryness.

Many chemicals and ALL acids attack cultured pearls.  Perfumes, cosmetics, hair spray and sweat can damage the nacre.  Pearls should be put on AFTER cosmetics, hair care products and perfume have been applied. 

Pearls should only be cleaned with warm water using MILD soap, lay them on a dry towel to completely dry (wet string can stretch and attract dirt); never use ammonia or other jewelry cleaners; and pearls should never be cleaned in the ultrasonic or with steam.

Pearl stands should be restrung about once yearly if worn regularly or whenever the string appears worn.

 

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